Friday, July 29, 2005

Welcome Aboard

Mosul, Iraq

Across Iraq, I keep running across American troops who are not Americans. Many of these soldiers and Marines are working towards attaining U.S. citizenship while in uniform, under fire, in Iraq.

I was privileged to witness the award ceremony for 12 new American citizens in Deuce Four recently. I hope America makes them feel welcome. If the folks at home could see what these people are doing in Iraq, they would make these special troops feel as honored guests. But now, better yet, they are honored citizens, giving life to the concept of active citizenship.

Today, I walked to noon chow with SSG William Suarez, from Puerto Rico. Suarez has a home in central Florida, and is as American as I am, except he comes complete with a very thick Puerto Rican accent. The soldiers love to have Suarez around; he has a great reputation under fire. One time, during a big fight downtown, SSG Suarez's voice came over the radio. With his thick accent, the commander joked at first he thought the radio had been captured by the enemy. There are at least five Spanish speaking soldiers in the fire support element, and the running joke in the TOC is that Deuce Four can do all their calls for fire (artillery, aviation, etc) in Spanish, without need to encrypt the calls.

SSG Suarez and I had lunch today with SFC Kim, who I had never met before and will probably never meet again. (Kim just happened to sit next to us at the chow hall.) SFC Kim was born in Korea 53 years ago, but he looks about 35, and didn't even join the US Army until he was 30 years-old. Kim says he's very happy to be an American, and that some of us don't realize how good we have it.


"The Q"

There's another soldier here from Mexico, Victor Quinonez. Everyone calls him Q. At 23, Q fights like crazy; he's earned his great combat reputation. I joke with Q that he'll either be a top military leader, or in trouble with the law if he doesn't listen to his leaders. And Q always tells me, "Mike, when the shit goes down and the bullets are flying, you stick with me and I'll get you out. Never fear when the Q is here! You've seen me in action. You know I'll get you out. I'm a Mexican, not a Mexican't!"

First time I met Q, I thought he was full of something, and he was, but it wasn't what I was thinking. One time, during a brief shootout, I kind of broke through a gate for cover in a house, and Q said, "Mike, what you hidin' from!" I answered, "Bullets, dumbass! Get in here!" "You come out here!" Q said, "We're gonna get these guys!" Now he's like my young Mexican-American brother and I get worried he'll get shot or blown up.

It's been true since the U.S. was founded that some of the best Americans were not born in America. And we can use all the good people we can get. That's something to remember.


New Americans: At War in Mosul
[Photo credit: Deuce Four; after ceremony in Baghdad]

Deuce Four's newest Americans:

Front row Left to Right
SPC Saroth Muth (Cambodia)
SPC David Floutier (England)
SPC Hugo Juarez (Mexico)
SPC Evans Martin (Antigua)
SPC Octavio Rodriguez (Mexico)

Back row Left to Right
SGT Ringsey Khin (Cambodia)
SPC Abdel Phipps (Jamaica)
SGT Collin Campbell (Trinidad)
SPC Bosco Jerez (Nicaragua)
SPC Jose Alvarado (Honduras)
SPC Moises Medina (Mexico)

SGT Walter Gaya, from Argentina, was scheduled to be sworn in with this group, but he was recently wounded in combat and could not attend the ceremony. He's in the United States recovering and remains committed to becoming a photo-journalist. Walt told me the other day that although his left eye is in question, his photo-shooting eye is perfect.

At Deuce Four here in Mosul, we still have 15 troops whose new citizen status is pending paperwork. These troops are from:

Argentina
Cambodia
Canada
Haiti
Jamaica
Korea
Mexico
Nicaragua
Russia
St Croix
Vietnam
And two others; I don't know where they are from.

Welcome Aboard!



Tuesday, July 26, 2005

Empty Jars

Kashmir: then

Extensive travels across central Asia have taken me up the plateaus of Tibet, across the meandering middle of China, around the mountains of Nepal, and along India's littered river banks. Although each has had the power to captivate, India, without a doubt, is the most beguiling land I have ever seen. From India I journeyed North, into Kashmir-- a land of wealth and beauty, shredded by the claws of covetous neighbors.

A Kashmiri Mohammedan said to me, "God keeps men in three jars. Do you understand?"

"Yes," I answered, "you say God keeps men in three jars."

"In the first jar," the man looked at me, "God keeps the Americans. God keeps that lid very, very tight, for the Americans try their level-best (he used Indian phrases) to escape and rule the world."

I nodded, hinting a smile, saying, "God is right."

The Mohammedan smiled back, holding up a hand to quiet me, and continued, "In the second jar, God keeps the Europeans. But God does not keep that lid so tight," still holding up his hand, as if expecting interruption, "You see, God knows the Europeans also want to rule the world, but Europeans do not try hard."

"Is true, is true," I chuckled.

But, like a preacher, the man held his hand even higher, and continued on with a louder voice, "God keeps Kashmiris in the third jar, but God does not keep a lid on our jar. We also want to rule the world but every time one of us tries to escape, the rest pull him back down!" and he clenched his fist!

"Sir," my smiled faded, "It would be difficult to convey more truth with fewer words."


Mosul: Now

In post-Saddam Iraq, another lid is off. But with so many people grabbing at the ankles of who ever makes a leap for the top, freedom to communicate has not changed the situation dramatically. On mobile phones, in internet cafes, in marketplaces and mosques, journalists and citizens alike know that what they say can kill them. A blood-spattered witness to Mosul's call to prayer (arms?) might argue that who controls words, controls man.

The enemy in Iraq does not appear to be weakening; if anything, they are becoming smarter, more complicated and deadlier. But this does not mean they are winning; to imply that getting smarter and deadlier equates to winning, is fallacious. Most accounts of the situation in Iraq focus on enemy "successes" (if success is re-defined as annihiliation of civility), while redacting the increasing viability and strength of the Iraqi government, which clearly is outpacing the insurgency.

The Mosul police are now strong enough to launch successful undercover operations, and have been fanning out across Mosul and surrounding villages, snooping and listening for snippets. On July 15th, police working undercover in a village Northwest of Mosul heard a group of villagers talking about a weapons cache, but the location was not mentioned. Iraqi forces locked down the village, searched and found a weapons depot from Syria into Mosul. Iraqi police also found and rescued the 28 year-old woman I mentioned briefly in the last dispatch. She was the wife of a Mosul journalist, and had been kidnapped and held for ransom by members of a beheading cell. After the village search, police hauled four men to a Mosul station for interrogation, and alerted the Americans.

Soldiers from A Company, 1-24th Infantry Regiment, headed to the police station to find out what the cops were learning, and I asked LT David Beaudoin, who was leading the patrol, if I could tag along. I had first met Beaudoin some months ago after a car bombing that claimed some of our people. Since that time, I had come to know Beaudoin as quiet, always polite, and well-liked by the soldiers. It was Beaudoin's mannered countenance that everyone saw as we arrived and sat down in a police colonel's office. The colonel was engaged in conversation with the Iraqi journalist, the husband of the 28 year-old woman who had been released.

As details of the kidnapping emerged, the surface of the big picture rippled with a winding current of revision. The kidnappers had threatened to cut off his wife's head, the journalist explained, kill him, and the rest of his family. But they would take $45,000 in exchange for "civility."

Evidently, the journalist had not been targeted for exercizing the power of the press; it was the promise of precedent that attended this abduction. Only months earlier, four men kidnapped the journalist's brother-in-law and demanded ransom of $50,000. The family negotiated the fee down to $5,000. A deal was struck, the money paid, and the "civility" delivered. Now, apparently, the same four kidnappers were back for the balance: $45,000. But the Iraqi undercover police, listening to people talking in a marketplace, picked up the trail that led to the rescue, and their eavesdropping also unleashed a cascade of avalanching proportions.

While the four kidnappers were being interrogated somewhere on the grounds, the bespectacled journalist--genuinely thankful for the release of his wife--was appealing to the colonel to hold the men. He said that other terrorists were still threatening to kill both he and his wife, and that if the men were released, his family would be killed. Without saying as much, the journalist indicated that he wanted bad things to happen to bad men.

I had seen recent information about plans to assassinate a journalist--Deuce Four leaders thought I might be the target. But now, hearing this journalist talk, I thought he must have been the target. LT Beaudoin's face yielded no hint of his reaction to the news from the journalist. I pulled a notepad from my pocket, scratched a note and handed it to Lt Beaudoin. He read the scribble-- There was a SIGACT that AIF plans to assassinate a journalist with an IED-- glanced at me with affirmation, then continued asking questions of the journalist through the Army interpreter.

But hell, I thought, looking at the journalist, You paid five-thousand bucks for your brother-in-law. Of course the kidnappers are coming back. The kidnappers know him as a client. Next to his name on their list, someone must have written "Has money, will pay." And pay. And pay. His jar is open.

Perhaps fueling his distress was the well-known but little mentioned tendency--some might say emerging trend--for some Iraqi police to release prisoners for bribes. This catch and release program has the same negative consequences as the Coalition tendency of detaining and then releasing suspected insurgents following a brief incarceration at Abu Ghraib. I have heard American military officers and senior enlisted men around Iraq complaining that terrorists are being released back on the streets, where their own soldiers and Marines must face them yet again in combat.

Every combat soldier knows the risks of capturing dangerous men far exceed those associated with just killing them. Capturing a terrorist is no longer a signal of the end of his ability to disrupt forward progress. That's not a minor shift in emphasis. Among people weary of watching friends and comrades fall and bleed to death, any adjustments in the goal posts give rise to discussions of more expedient and durable ways of dealing with infestations of combatants who scurry in and out of hiding places. Not tightening the lids on these insect jars does more than just lead some cantankerous officers and police to consider more definitive measures of dealing with combatants. It also places our young soldiers and Marines in precarious waters, where one can only hope they are physically and morally conditioned to resist the current.

Some of those same currents had started swirling around the colonel's office, as LT Beaudoin asked increasingly specific questions that were deflected and re-directed if not evaded outright. Young LT Beaudoin dove for the diplomatic throat, raised his voice a notch and said firmly to the police colonel, "Listen! You need to be straight with us. We are your allies. We will capture or kill these guys."

Before the interpreter could translate Beaudoin's words, it was clear their meaning had been communicated. The Iraqi journalist and the police colonel both were in my field of view. They sat upright and paid full attention to Beaudoin, promising to provide the information requested. But LT Beaudoin was not satisfied, and said, "I want to interview the police lieutenant who captured these guys," which everyone knew translated to, "Get the lieutenant who captured them in here, now."

The colonel spoke and waved his hand, and soon a policeman came into the room. He flattened a laminated map on a tea table, and the journalist and the police chief started pointing possible targets to LT Beaudoin. The momentum of the meeting had shifted from friendly and informative, to specific and deadly.



Cascades

There is a pattern of cascades in counterguerrilla combat operations. In this kind of warfare, information drives maneuvers, and a single capture of a key person frequently cascades into a shower of raids and captures, each pregnant with the next storm.

That night, Iraqi police took the 4 captured men out to identify targets. On route, one "tried to escape" and was killed, intensifying the pressure on the remaining three. The cascade had begun with the snippet of information, but now was fanning open, as police, operating alone, uncovered the original cache in the village northwest of Mosul. While this catch was merely a depot to Mosul, it led to the giant cache we raided ["The Devil's Foyer," 21 July 05], and from there to yet another large cache uncovered on the same day on the east side of the Tigris River in Mosul. The cascade fizzled to the end of its run at a fourth cache that rendered only empty munitions containers.

Of greater interest was the prisoners' admission that the munitions were being readied for the next elections.

Many of the "fighters" here emerged and filled the vacuum following the fall of Saddam. In Tombstone, they'd be guns for hire; in Bogota, they'd be kidnappers without a cause. Here, they do not equate so much to organized resistance as to organized crime.

They get lumped in with the "resistance," but this is not entirely accurate. They do business with it, and they exploit it for personal gains like money, possessions and power. Today, the terrorists and their more populous criminal cousins in Iraq have a great deal in common, including the goal of forcing the new government to fail in its mission to secure the borders and restore and maintain order.

The terrorists have been trying to--with good success--cripple the macro-economy by destroying pipelines and infrastructure, and these attacks help the criminals. Attacks on gas stations, for instance, disaffect the citizenry from the government, while giving black-marketers transient fuel monopolies.

There's good money to be made in chaos. Last week, Deuce Four soldiers visited gas stations that had been vandalized, including one station which came under sniper attack just before we arrived. When we walked into that station, a cop came forward, eager to brag about how he had just killed the sniper. Other police officers gathered around, smiling and sticking close to the day's hero, sharing his status as flavor-of-the-day.

All the while, a seemingly endless line of Iraqi cars idled in the hot sun. Gasoline shortages in this oil-rich nation force tens of thousands of Iraqis to sqaunder whole days of their lives, waiting to fill their tanks. The many taxis in line all have their trunk lids removed, to show they are not carrying large car bombs.

Still, of all the clawing hands weighting the legs of the new Iraq, the foreign "jihadists" get the least respect and are mostly despised. Local terrorists, even those who trade in newly-minted matyrs, seem to view jihadists as the lowest of the low-- as if the volunteers-come-hither are merely fungible foreign idiots, worth less than the wads of floppy third-world currencies crumpled in their pockets. The foreign fighters are a sort of toxic waste drifting and floating on the surface of this civil war. Their touch is stain.

And so it was for one foreign fighter some days ago. Mosul police were driving downtown when a fusilade of machine gun fire penetrated their truck. The guns began to cool, having shot seven policemen dead. Nearby, a Deuce Four combat patrol came upon three suspicious cars driving erratically. The first car sped away, but the second car--a taxi--was not so lucky, because the driver of the third car apparently panicked and smashed headlong into the rear of taxi. The taxi driver bolted from his car. There were three passengers in the third car, now accordianed into the back end of the taxi. The front seat passenger tested the mathematics describing physics, stopping his inertia by smashing his head into the windshield, leaving a complete impression of his Tunisian face.

As the Americans stopped and dropped ramps, all three passengers bolted. They ran to the right, leaving a trail of tossed weapons on the road that included two AKs, a grenade and a pistol, and two RPGs and four RPG rounds in their car. The Americans, SSG Freed, Tuzza, and Specialists Hood, Reynolds, Holden, Chacon and others, all led by LT Dave Webb, got after the terrorists.

SSG Freed followed the trail of glistening blood-drops from the crash scene for three blocks into a house until he came face to lacerated face with the Tunisian, tackling him as he climbed the back wall of a house. Meanwhile, the taxi driver had taken refuge in a store behind a counter, and when an American soldier came 'round, the owner subtly signaled with his eyes that a terrorist was hiding behind his counter. Busted.

The soldiers came under small arms fire, perhaps from the car that escaped, but held tight and rounded up four fighters. The Tunisian got busy telling everything he knew. Such is the burden of foreign fighters on the Iraqi terror networks. When caught, they normally tell everything as fast as they can, unleashing cascading rapids of details about insurgent plans, people and resources.

Next day, I was sitting in the TOC when intelligence arrived that a top Mosul terrorist was in a certain location nearby. It so happened that LT Orande Roy Sr, along with his Deuce Four Stryker platoon, was also nearby. Minutes later, LT Roy rolled up on a dozen Iraqi men. The soldiers began to detain and separate the men when they spied one man slowly reaching into his pocket and wrestled him down. Specialists Joseph Vanvranken and Darrell Blanchard searched him and found a hand grenade and pistol in his pocket. As the weapons were revealed, the other Iraqis, as if on cue, started pointing to the man with the grenade and the pistol saying he was a bad guy, or perhaps the bad guy.

In the excitement, a baby boy began crying. The man holding the boy was having little success in comforting him, so another man looked concerned for the child and asked to hold him. Of all the men there, LT Roy said, the man who reached for the child seemed the calmest, safest and friendliest.

About that time, one of the younger American soldiers walked out to LT Roy holding at arm's length a vest filled with explosives--luckily, his handling had not detonated the device. LT Roy decided to detain everyone, and as one soldier reached for the child, the friendly man started to shudder, his calm facade faltering. Adding to the mix, the interpreter noticed that one of the men had a foreign accent. He was Libyan.

The Libyan, like so many "jihadists" who come to Iraq itching for action in the holy war, found himself treated as exspendable bomb casing. He started confessing everything. In fact, he had no sooner sat down at the table in the detention facility here on base than he had filled three pages with detailed handwritten confessions. The Libyan had crossed the border from Syria into Iraq on foot, intent on fighting a holy war, as an infantryman engaged in direct combat with American soldiers. He did not want to be a martyr, merely a jihadist. He did not want to die in Iraq. His Iraqis "hosts" had threatened to kill him if he refused to wear and detonate the explosive vest while mingling into a crowd of Iraqi police. But the Libyan did not like that plan and was angry at the Iraqis who were trying to force a holy jihadist to become an unwilling bomb, and he was telling everything. Another cascade.

And the calm man, who appeared so clever and confident while standing there comforting a crying infant? How the picture changed when a young American solider stepped into the frame, reached for and gently took the child. Without his prop, the actor faltered, his illusion cracked and shattered as he shuddered before the soldier. This man who cowered behind a crying child was one of the top terrorist leaders in Mosul.

I remember the Kashmiri Mohammedan and his three jars. While terrorists on earth do their best to keep us down, men and women boarded a space ship in Florida today, and flew into space.



Monday, July 25, 2005

Special Note


Stand by: Next Dispatch is on the way.

Special Note: American experts who examined the 26 Surface to Air Missiles captured in "The Devil's Foyer," say 23 of those missiles could have been used to attack aircraft.



Thursday, July 21, 2005

The Devil's Foyer

The Devil's Foyer

Mosul, Iraq
American gyms in Iraq are excellent. Whoever selected the gear and outfitted these facilities deserves accolades. Maybe the gym-outfitters are in a top-secret Pentagon office called GYMCOM (Gym Command), where people meet to discuss GYMOPS, and its effects on troop readiness and morale. On this base in Mosul, the gym is so well outfitted that if it were in Chicago, I imagine it might cost members a couple hundred dollars per month. But here it’s free.

I was walking from the gym down the dusty hill past the mailroom, the medics, and supply, on the way to the TOC when Karummph a mortar landed on the airfield below, lofting pale dust into the heated breeze. I knew there would be another explosion soon, but where? About thirty seconds later Karummph, down on the airfield, another dust plume. I walked into the TOC just in time to hear the Battle Captain say, “Give me a POO” [Point Of Origin], and then he turned to a sergeant and said, “Do we have POI? [Point Of Impact].”

“Two splashes on the airfield,” I said.

The Battle Captain turned back to another sergeant, saying “You got the POO?” and the sergeant began reading off the coordinates where the two mortars were fired from . . . and it turned out these were not mortars, but rockets. A difference with distinction.

Our bases have something called Counter Battery Radar (CBR), and when a mortar or rocket is launched, the computers on the CBR can calculate the POO before the bomb lands. The enemy knows this, and they know we can fire “counter battery” cannon or mortars, or that we might have jets and helicopters just moments away, or forces on the ground nearby. Lately, Iraqi police have joined the list of options for killing mortar teams. It’s increasingly dangerous to be a terrorist here.

And so the enemy plays a game of fire and flee, hauling the mortars around town, setting up the tubes (or rockets), firing a few shots, and moving out quickly. To buy a little more insurance, the enemy often picks a POO close to a school or a mosque, knowing that Americans will be reluctant to shoot at schools, and usually will not fire at mosques. In fact, mosques are off-limits without higher approval unless you are clearly taking fire from them. But this isn’t a case of giving the enemy a safe haven for launching bombs at our soldiers. Insurgents have learned the hard way that higher approval is not a high hurdle when the same mosque is used for a shield more than once. If a man does not respect his own sacred ground, he should not expect others to. A man should never hide behind religion like he’s hiding behind his momma’s leg.

The CBR is effective. The enemy shooters can only strike briefly. If they take one extra shot, or take a few extra seconds scrambling away, they will die. Our cannons, our helicopters, US soldiers and snipers, the Iraqi police, or some combination of these, will kill them. As frustrating as it can be to have an enemy firing two or three round volleys at Coalition and Iraqi forces, the fact is we can take those punches. It helps knowing that every time an insurgent sets up he’s like a buck drinking at the river. Our hunters are always looking for tracks and laying ambushes. Sooner or later, bam! Head on the wall.

Part of the persistence of the insurgency results from a staggering availability of fighting materials. There are tons of explosives and munitions here in Mosul, with more streaming in every day, though mounting evidence strongly suggests this flow is abating. For example, the street price of 60mm "mortar bombs" was about $3/shot 9 months ago. Now it’s up nearly seven-fold to over $20. Car bomb incidents in Mosul, while still causing major damage to both military and civilians, have been declining. Whether this is a temporary dip or steady trend remains to be seen. Even if the ongoing flow were completely cut off, there is still a deep well of materiel on hand.

Stemming the flow of munitions has been an ongoing challenge, one that’s been met with varying degrees of success. It begins with intelligence about how material moves in and out of a city. Mosul has 34 “major” land routes, consisting of 11 roads and 23 “rat lines.” The so-called rat lines are usually no more than hard-packed dirt trails, but they are navigable avenues into Mosul.

Throughout human history, civilizations have built walls to keep people out—China—or keep people in—Soviet Union—or to funnel people: The Americans built a wall in Vietnam to canalize the enemy. Apparently none of these walls sealed the borders as hermitically as their architects envisioned. In fact, the only reliable thing about most walls is that people will get past them.

It’s reasonable to assume that graduates of the finest military academies in the world might know a few things about war beyond the ken of the average joe. Yet, when I learned that our troops were building a “wall” around Mosul, I was tempted to scoff. It didn’t make sense. So, when the timing was right, and enough officers were around at the same time, I brought up the topic of “The Berm.”

“Why did you build a berm around Mosul?” I asked. Those first few seconds, while lacking much in the form of any concrete answers, were nonetheless telling. Some of the officers shifted about, and there was blinking and hesitation before the answers came, haltingly. And there was the "Well, throughout history, walls have not been very effective . . . any obstacle is only as good as the man guarding it.” One fact emerged: the “wall” was a contentious subject. But it was also clear that the berm was never meant to hermetically seal Mosul, but rather to canalize those 23 ratlines. People hauling munitions might be more apt to attempt the 11 main roads, and when they cut channels through the berm, they will telepath exactly which avenues are smuggling routes.

According to one of the greatest inventors, Thomas Edison: “Just because something doesn't do what you planned it to do doesn't mean it's useless.” Some highly-respected and heavily-credentialed people thought Edison was a failure every time his electric lightbulb only flickered.

A couple days after those rockets landed on the airfield as I was leaving the gym, there was another Karummph. So I headed to the TOC and there were more Karummphs. The Battle Captain asked a sergeant, “Do you have a POO?” and the men in the TOC were checking what assets were nearby to deal with the shooters.

More Karummphs as mortars arc onto the base. Usually there are only two or three incoming, but these guys kept on firing, and so the top officers and sergeants ran out to see if soldiers were being hit. The best way to find the battalion commander and sergeant major of Deuce Four is to start shooting at their soldiers; the leaders here will run straight into the line of fire to check their men and rally for the fight. And so the colonel ran out with Sergeant Major Prosser—neither were wearing helmets or protective gear—and they headed straight for the Karummphs. This type of attack is the second leading cause of injury and death to American soldiers in Iraq. I was winded trying to keep up. Finally the eleventh Karummph was the last, and none of our people were hurt.

And so day turned into night back into day and into the night again.

That night, Deuce Four ran four simultaneous raids. In one raid, B Company approached a house belonging to a terrorist involved in complex and ongoing attacks, including a devastating ambush that killed over 25 Iraqi commandos in November. The Stryker platoon, led by LT Lucas Kerr, isolated the block around the target house. Intelligence indicated that the terrorist had emplaced holes and firing positions in his home. With nighttime temperatures exceeding 90 degrees, many Iraqis sleep on their roofs to keep cool, making it difficult for us to sneak up during the summertime.

Nearly every home in Iraq has an outer wall, so the soldiers parked the Strykers a distance away to isolate. The soldiers had silenced their gear, team leaders and squad leaders checking their men by making them jump up and down until they could hear only boots hitting the concrete. The men slipped out of the Strykers and crept quietly through the darkened streets.

The source for this target failed to tell the platoon that the outer wall also had strands of barbed wire on top; but the squad climbed the outer wall, and about eight soldiers from SSG David Nieradka's squad had made it quietly over when perhaps the terrorist heard tink, and knew that trouble was paying a visit. He pulled the pin on a hand grenade and tossed it at the soldiers, but only the fuse exploded; the rest of the grenade was a dud. He began firing a 9mm pistol and got off two shots before he was hit by a fulisade of bullets from SSG Nieradka's squad, and fell dead.

Separately, in an undercover operation, the Iraqi police detained four men whose kidnapping cell had abducted the 28-year-old wife of a Mosul journalist. This group was known to behead their victims, holding the world vicariously hostage with their crude cinemtography. This raid was interesting; information had recently come in that the terrorists were plotting to kill a journalist here in Mosul, and some officers believed the target was me. There is an interesting aside about a spy that Deuce Four detained who was actively trying to persuade me to visit what he described as a "safe" place in Iraq. While he is now in Abu Ghirab, I am still with Deuce Four, both of us "safe" for the moment.

[For the record: If I am ever captured and seen on television telling the world that America is evil, I am lying.]

The apparent target of these four assassins was the Iraqi journalist whose wife was kidnapped and later rescued by the Iraqi police. And now those same kidnappers were nabbed by a police force that has little difficulty extracting information from people. I heard one American captain at the police station say that the kidnappers were “singing like birds.” That night, the Iraqi police shared information about a gigantic weapons cache, and hours later they joined elements of Deuce Four in a raid on that target.

Midnight had come and gone, while I sat in the TOC watching and listening to the raids unfold on the screens. Major Mike Lawrence, the operations officer, was communicating with his various commanders downtown when the word came back that the cache-information was real.

Not only was it real, but enormous. Anti-tanks mines were hidden in couches, tons of explosives were hidden underground. There were surface-to-air missiles and pre-fabricated IEDs, like the one that nearly killed my neighbors last week. And they were just starting the search.

It was now 3 a.m. and I was riding in a Stryker heading downtown to the weapons cache. We knew it would be a long night and even longer day as no one had slept and the size of the capture was growing with each radio call.

Tons of munitions underground

When we arrived at the target, the Iraqi police were getting tuckered out; after all, it was about 4 a.m. and they had been working all night. So they quickly said goodbye, and melted off into the darkness with a duck under each arm. Nobody was sore that the police left us to unearth tons of dangerous munitions. To put it in perspective, just some months ago there really weren’t any Iraqi police because the insurgents were beheading them. Knowing they are still the primary targets for terrorists, seeing the police now squeezing suspected insurgents and raiding their nests, everyone was happy to see the Iraqi police scoring victories day after day, though this was by far the biggest I had seen.

I was very happy to see the cops go; they were handling the explosives roughly, apparently without the slightest idea that dozens of us could all vaporize in a very impressive mushroom cloud with this headline:

43 Americans and 55 Iraqi Police killed in Giant Cache Blast: City Block Leveled.


Mosul, Iraq
The skies are darkened with black smoke after a giant explosion killed dozens of Americans and Iraqis. The cause of the blast is unknown, but is believed to be related to a large amount of captured munitions. The explosion caused dozens of rockets, artillery and mortar shells to hurtle hundreds of yards, sparking fires in numerous locations, setting a gas tanker ablaze. As the burning fuel ran downhill, dozens of blocks of homes were scorched. The death toll is sure to rise. Local citizens are furious at the Americans for causing the massive explosion. A US Army spokesman said that a team of investigators will arrive today and declined further comment.


Yes, “Goodnight, Goodnight,” I kept waving to the cops who were either diving in front of or away from the camera, and, as they left they waved and said, “Hello.”

“Hello” in local dialect apparently means, "Hello; Goodbye; Thank you; You’re welcome; I surrender; Do you want tea?" And so as they disappeared the cops each said, “Hello,” and next, “Hello,” and so on until all of them had melted into the darkness with their barnyard animals and new weapons. These cops had nailed the beheaders, rescued the woman, found this cache and left us to clean it up. No informed person can honestly say there is no progress in Mosul.

Most of the explosives were squirreled away in a room hidden under a filthy barnyard floor. The access point was a small square hole that opened into a room about half the size of a large semitruck. It was packed with munitions. Floor to ceiling packed. Wall to wall packed. To disassemble the room, soldiers removed bombs just to stand on other bombs, so they could dig through stacks of bombs until finally reaching the floor. Then they duplicated this sequence, to create space for two soldiers to work, and finally, there was room for three.

I came down, and there was Lt. Raub Nash sweating and grimy, working with one of his soldiers. CPT Paul Carron, the B Co commander, had just emerged and was covered in sweat, filth, and grime. The leaders here all share the dirty work.


Boiling heat and bombs

The temperature down there was at least 20 degrees beyond any measure of hot. The air was filthy with dust, darkness, and the menace that wafted like a stench off all the bombs, bombs, and more bombs. I was sitting on bombs and missiles that I could not identify--there was not enough floor cleared for three men to stand. There were mortar rounds, some with fuses, some without. Some fuses had no safety pins. Some rounds had charges on the fins.

There were surface-to-air missiles, RPGs, and strange munitions of various sorts. The danger was severe, but with this much explosives, it wouldn’t matter if you were in the hole or a hundred yards away; if this thing blows, game over.



The soldiers inside the hell hole passed up a green ball, about the size of a large cantaloupe, and handed it over to another soldier who began to walk with it, and he said, “I wonder what this is?” Someone looked and said, “STOP. Don’t move. Don’t put it down. You hear what I say? Don’t move. Wait right here.”

Don't drop it

“Everybody stop!” he said, “Tell the people in the hole to stop.” An Explosives Ordinance Specialist named SFC Perry came over to see the cause of the commotion. Even in the darkness, he saw it for the danger it contained. In a calm but clear voice he said, “Whoa . . . whoa . . . whoa, what is this? This looks like a submunition. . . . ”

LTC Kurilla, who was out checking security, came in and heard this and halted all work on the site. The commander took off his gear so he could (barely) fit down the hole, and went searching for more submunitions. He found none, but then just kept working down in the filthy, hot hell hole handing up bombs.

After hours of labor, the soldiers are nearly finished: Many of these bombs are fused with no safety pins.

When the sun peeked up, a soldier cranked up the Bobcat earthmover Deuce Four had brought along, and started digging around the yard, and unearthed more munitions in a pile of loose sand, and more still in a pile of loose gravel. I wondered if the terrorists had buried the bombs in the soft dirt and gravel piles as a sort of “dead drop.”

Prefabricated IEDs sometimes look like curbs. The enemy uses these to kill us on roads.

There were many tools, and various sorts of completed IEDs, such as the six large devices, each weighing hundreds of pounds, and cast inside of concrete to look like road curbing. There were over a dozen homemade shaped charges buried in the gravel, each one powerful enough to kill our soldiers.

Shape charges in gravel: Simple hiding place,
or primitive dead drop?

Shaped Charges: Over the past few months, the enemy has been experimenting with new ways to penetrate our armor with smaller but mathematically enhanced shaped explosives.


If this were a “dead drop,” the bad guys could bury the shaped charges in the loose sand or gravel, until someone comes to pick up weapons. They could shut the gate behind them, dig through the gravel, put the bomb(s) in their trunk, and drive away. The people who worked at that bomb factory in the barn probably lived nearby in over-watch. Probably watching us rob their nest. The dire implications of that possibility were clear.

The sun finally began to rise and the soldiers started to tally the catch: 26 shoulder fired surface-to-air missiles, 28 complete mortar firing systems and nearly 1,500 “mortar bombs."

Caps

Drugs: Perhaps for farm animals, or maybe for "Martyrs" who are known to get doped up and lay-up with prostitutes before killing people.

The soldiers carted away 26 rocket-propelled grenade launchers and several hundred rounds. Sixteen anti-tank mines modified with anti-personnel shrapnel were hidden in couches. Each of those mines could destroy a humvee. The soldiers call these modified mines "Birthday Cakes." There were dozens of assault weapons and machine guns, thousands of rounds of ammunition, night vision gear, one bayonet, chemical masks, and more. There was an ID card for an American soldier. And a sword that looked homemade.

Finishing up: Exhausted yet feeling elation that
comes only from hard work and major success

Surface to Air Missiles: out of circulation

Tons of explosives were hauled away, but the more unstable components had to be exploded in place. Soldiers chase off the farm birds before the detonation.

One Goose refused to leave, and had to be escorted out

There were two large blasts followed by smaller explosions

The blast rocked Mosul, transforming the landscape from barnyard bomb factory to dark side of the moon crater: The soldiers offer scale

...And there was that homemade sword. I picked up the long weapon, rotated it back and forth to examine the handle and blade. The blade was jagged but the steel looked brittle. Had this blade been used to chop off heads? I raised the sword over my head and struck a rock to test its strength. The blade snapped in half.



Saturday, July 16, 2005

Angels Among Us

Walt and Plum

Mosul
Sixty Stryker tires were strapped five-high into the belly of a C-130 cargo plane heading for Mosul. After weeks of riding in a Humvee with CSM Mellinger and crew, at times sharing a dusty but air-conditioned tent in Baghdad with bold mice, it was time to go "home."

Each day Stryker tires get blown off, sometimes sailing hundreds of feet before landing smoldering on a rooftop, or a car, or the ground. So the belly of the airplane was filled with replacement tires, and three passengers: an Australian Naval officer, a US Army officer, and me.

While away from Mosul, I had assiduously tracked the news, but the news just doesn't do it, not even over here. Email was little help unless answers like, "When you come back you'll find out" and, "You know damn well I can't tell you what's happening unless you are here," count as informative. Even as the airplane lofted into the sky, Deuce-Four was conducting a raid, hauling in explosives, mortars and other deadly devices.

The C-130 landed in Mosul and the Stryker tires and stowaways tumbled out onto the blistering runaway, as scorching exhaust blasts from the still-running engines added to the haze. Inside the airfield shack, military phones were not working, so I could not call the 1-24th Infantry for a ride, leaving me stuck at the airfield. But soldiers are usually quick to give someone a ride, so when I spotted a sergeant who looked like he was going somewhere, I asked for a lift. Strangely, he had never heard of 1-24 Infantry.


"You never heard of Deuce-Four?" I said. How could someone in Mosul not know Deuce-Four?

"Of course I've heard of Deuce-Four," the sergeant replied.

"Well Deuce-Four is the 1-24th Infantry Regiment. That's my unit."

"You're a civilian?"

"It's sort of my unit."

"I'm not going that way, but hop in and I'll give you a lift."


We rumbled down the dusty road to FOB Marez, and when I jumped off the big truck, soldiers in the back handed down my gear, waved goodbye and rumbled away. I walked past the guards at Deuce-Four and they welcomed me back.

I dropped off the bags in my trailer and headed to the TOC (HQ), and found everyone smiling-- they had just hauled in a major weapons cache. When they welcomed me back, too, I thought: it's good to be home, even when home is at war.

Deuce-Four Capture in Mosul

I spent much of the night at the TOC getting caught up on the ever-changing Mosul. Soldiers showed captured enemy video of a sniper attack in Baghdad. An American soldier was walking near a Humvee when crack! he was knocked flat by a bullet. His gear stopped death's dispatch at the door. He was stunned but jumped back to his feet ready to fight. After finding cover, the soldier located the sniper. The enemy continued to tape the whole thing: right up to the moment the soldier and his buddies caught the sniper and video team. While that attack turned out okay for our soldiers, snipers have become an increasing threat. Just recently, Arnold Duplantier was shot down with a sniper's bullet through his heart.

Catching up on the events, I heard stories of raids capturing High Value Targets (key leaders), more homicide car bombings, and the continued progress of the Mosul Police and Iraqi Army.

Next morning came early, but provided a chance to reconnect with my neighbors, the snipers and members of recon platoon. There was Walt Gaya, from Argentina originally, but proudly serving in the American Army. A photographer who plans to study photojournalism when he gets home, Walt had taught me some important things about photography. But the first thing I learned is that he doesn't like digital cameras. Doesn't like the quality. Walt shoots in black and white, with this little Leica film camera that costs more than some fishing boats.

The Streets of Mosul

Walt's eyes serve him well as a sniper, and though some people call enemy snipers cowards, anyone who knows anything about war knows that it takes guts to be a sniper, no matter what team you are on. I get the strange feeling that he'll become a great photojournalist, if he survives the war. But for now, something bigger than the future holds him here.

Walt doesn't talk about it, but the first thing to draw the eye in his room is the small shrine he keeps for his roommate, "Plum," who was killed in battle. Walt misses Plum immensely.

The Recon platoon is comprised mostly of young men. Combat has padded the age of most of these veterans, although you wouldn't know it from the ferocity of the fight still in them. Along with Plum, they lost another buddy, Benjamin "Rat" Morton, who was killed on a raid not long ago. In fact, of fifteen snipers in the company, five have been killed, and nearly all the rest have been wounded.

Walt is one of 11 Deuce-Four soldiers scheduled to receive their US citizenship in a ceremony in Baghdad on 25 July. This long and bureaucratic process will allow some of our soldiers fighting for Iraq and the United States to become American citizens, and partake in the democratic process and freedoms that allow people like me to roam the planet and write.

While the sun was still rising into the day, I made an appointment to see Walt later that night to look at some of his new black and white prints. When we said goodbye, neither knew that he would not return from his mission that night.

But this morning, the plan was to go downtown with Deuce-Four, visit police at different stations, and check on their continued progress. Before departing the base, we had the normal briefing, where Captain Jodway, the intelligence officer, warned about a severe car bomb threat today. The Strykers are a popular target for car bombers.

While we were rolling downtown, calls came over the radio that bombs had just exploded in cities across Iraq, including one that exploded nearby in Mosul, killing about five policemen. With another American unit responding, we continued our mission--meeting with police chiefs.

The grinding details of getting Iraq on its feet might be more tolerable if the backdrop were not so thick with smoke-smudged, blood-spattered wreckage. Having seen Poland and other countries rise uncertainly to stand after years of oppression, I'm no stranger to the rapidly changing laws and political intrigue in post-dictator societies. Politics, particularly the real politick that still plays out in the dwindling shadow of communism, is fascinating.

But in this climate of bombs and bullets, it's nothing short of excruciating to sit through yet another meeting, especially one like this, where the police chief seems especially keen on getting a new and larger desk. When we finally walked out into the open air, with all the charred, blasted and bullet-pocked walls before us, I asked LTC Kurilla if he ever got tired of hearing all the dribble and trivial requests, everyone always wanting that extra little cut for themselves, figuring Uncle Sam's so rich, he'll foot the bill.

"Every now and then, I would like to just hear a thank you--and not have it followed by the next request," he said, as we loaded the Strykers and moved out.

Watching the screen from inside the Stryker, the soldiers spotted a white car that matched a vehicle the army had been hunting. Our soldiers blocked the car, dismounted and ascertained the identity of the men, who were then detained with flex-cuffs. Meanwhile, mindful of the previous night's briefing and all the recent sniper attacks, I was taking photos but found myself constantly seeking new cover from sniper fire that might be no more than a breath away.

When the Deuce-Four soldiers started loading their two detainees onto the Stryker--crack! A sniper fired. The bullet raced toward us at about one-half mile per second. At that speed, even if the bullet strikes a helmet, or the armor-plating that covers chests and backs, the impact alone can kill. The supersonic bullet was heading straight into the back of a Stryker . . . where bang! It punched a hole through a metal seat, barely missing a detainee and the American soldiers next to him.

Nobody knew all this yet. All we knew was crack! The shot had come from behind me. Within half a second, I was down, swung around on a knee; so fast that some soldiers thought I was shot.

Specialist Chris Espindola and another soldier started laughing. Nobody finds cover faster than me; there is no chance that I will ever be recognized for gallantry in combat. Given how death has a way of interfering with writing, I am okay about that. But seeing them laughing made me think perhaps it wasn't a sniper; maybe one of them had fired a warning shot. Didn't sound like an American weapon, though.

I asked, "Did you fire a warning shot?"

They were still chuckling, oblivious we were under sniper attack. But not for long. Soldiers in our Stryker shouted, "Contact, contact, contact!"

A group of soldiers were already running in pursuit of the sniper. LTC Kurilla and his dismounted crew took chase, and I took chase behind them, wearing all kinds of fire retardant and protective gear, for some refreshing wind-sprints in the Iraqi heat. Kurilla stopped for a few seconds, just long enough to tell a man to get his kids inside, then bolted off after the enemy. We ran and walked some blocks, with the four Strykers maneuvering around us, but we never found the sniper. Winded, we loaded up and drove back to turn over the detainees, grab lunch and roll right back out into Mosul.

Later that evening, the Recon platoon and the snipers, Walt among them, headed downtown on a mission of their own. Mark Bush was driving one of the Strykers when he parked to allow observation of some key terrain. Directly atop a bomb. Within seconds, Mark got the willies about the parking spot, and just as he was about to come over the radio BLAM!

The heavy Stryker flew into the air, blasting tires asunder, one tire flying more than a hundred yards. The explosion was so hard that it traumatized the tailbones of the men. The blast ripped through the bottom of the Strkyer and straight into an AT-4 missile, cutting the missile in half, but neither the missile nor the propellant exploded.

The fire extinguishing system blasted away, the place was completely dark--the back hatch was jammed, but the tiny emergency hatch was blasted open, yet was behind ripped metal that would cut any survivors or rescuers to ribbons. There was no light whatsoever in the smoke, dust and fire extinquishers.

Nine men were in the Stryker. The force of the bomb blew off everyone's protective glasses, and the exploded fire extinguishers covered everything inside the smoking Stryker with powder. Some of the soldiers were unconscious; others thought their legs or feet were gone.

The device had been planted beside a large water main. The big water pipe burst, flooding the road and the Stryker in a small fast moving river. A large part of Mosul lost water. Emergency calls went out, helicopters spun up, and men prepared for battle.

One soldier on the ground ran to the wreckage, but there was so much dust and smoke that he was at the wrong Stryker. Another Stryker driver saw the water in his thermals and thought it was fuel flooding on the ground, and knew that any second everyone would die in flames.

Mark Bush was still in his driver's seat. The blast hit behind him, throwing him against his seatbelt, and wrenched his shoulder. He was so dazed it took a moment to realize something had happened. Skewers of white-hot metal from the explosion had ripped into the Stryker. Walt was closest to the blast.

The helicopters launched to provide security over the site, wounded were evacuated to the combat support hospital, all while combat power and recovery assets raced through the streets from other parts of Mosul.

Walt and "Rat"

All the men returned to duty within a day or so, except for Walt. They are all limping around, peppered with cuts, shrapnel and bruises, showing me the marks on their faces and bodies, and Mark's stiff shoulder seems mostly lame. He can't use it for now. Scotty, another sniper, is upset because his platoon sergeant won't let him go on missions until he can prove fit for combat by running on a treadmill. "I'm okay," Scotty said yesterday while sunning himself. "I can't just sit on base all the time while my friends are out there. . . . This sucks."

But for Walt, his war is over. Doctors say he will recover, but he needs eye surgery, and he is out of action. Perhaps he can pursue photojournalism in peace, but Walt will miss the citizenship ceremony in Baghdad.

After seeing the damaged Stryker, and being unable to visualize how human bodies would have to be arrayed in order to fit in what was left of it, I had to ask. I found Mark Bush and asked him how they all escaped being killed.

Without hesitation, Mark looked straight at me and said: "We had angels watching us."

My face must have given away skepticism, so he said to me, "Mike, did you see what it did to the Stryker?"

"Yes," I replied.

"Well, there is no other way to explain how we survived, except that Plum and Rat were there, and they stopped the blast. I know they were there. Plum and Rat held up their hands to save us. They stopped the blast. They were there."



Thursday, July 14, 2005

Do they Know?

Mosul
Emails coming in by the bucket, soldiers stopping me on the road, all asking if the leadership in Baghdad really knows what is going on with soldiers in combat. I cannot answer whether the top generals know what is going on; I did not ask. I can say, however, with complete confidence, that CSM Jeffrey Mellinger, who is the top non-commissioned officer in the theatre, knows more about the situation in Iraq than anyone I have met. CSM Mellinger sees it from top to bottom. From the dusty outposts, to the hospitals, from the supply channels and mailrooms, to the Marines, the Navy, Coast Guard, Army, Air Force and more. From Special Forces, Rangers and SEALs, to truck drivers and widget-fixers. CSM Mellinger is likely to show up at your door or lonely outpost without warning. You won't hear his helicopter; he'll probably drive nearby and park. He knows what's going on, and he expects that all the troops better know, too.

Michael



Wednesday, July 13, 2005

Walking the Line V

One Journey Ends

Roads to the future: Iraqis gain freedom to choose their course

Mesopotamia
Six months of patience paid off, when I finally had the opportunity to ride along with Command Sergeant Major Mellinger as he traveled across Iraq on his continuous mission to assess conditions of the troops. For three weeks, as we traveled in Iraq, Kuwait and on the North Arabian Gulf, he diligently captured the most comprehensive first-hand picture of what is happening here.

Reading like a travelogue from "30 Days Around the World" tours, our itinerary began as we drove from Mosul in northern Iraq down through Baghdad, down further to Kuwait and from there we flew out to a Navy ship in the North Arabian Gulf, returning to Kuwait and finally driving back to Baghdad. Once there, we visited places in the region and then headed back down to Kalsu and surrounds.


At every stop, CSM Mellinger met with a diverse range of people, from top generals and political leaders to fresh troops standing long, hot, dusty days and nights on guard towers at seemingly forgotten outposts. He never failed to warn, over and over, about various dangers, such as the increasing sniper threat that is killing more and more of our troops. In fact, we had just been in the hospital when an American soldier named Arnold Duplantier was brought in, fatally wounded by a sniper's bullet that struck his heart.

Following a visit with Marines at Fallujah, we drove out to spend time with some Special Forces in Diyala Province near Iran. On the way to Balad, we came to an area where American forces had just cleared an IED, but left a traffic jam. CSM Mellinger and some of the soldiers dismounted and began to pick their way through. Ordinarily, I'd step out, but this time, the threat seemed very high, so I stayed in the Humvee. In the event of follow on attacks or blasts, it would be useless to have everyone flopping around on the road. Here in this desert combat zone, wisdom rations both water and sense.

Traffic jam caused by IED

American Soldiers telling us about IED ahead ----

At Balad, meeting with the top Command Sergeant Major for Special Operations forces in Iraq, I glanced up and saw a photo of Richard Ferguson on the conference room wall. Fergy, an old friend, had died in Samara, and now his photo is on the wall next to photos of eight other Special Forces soldiers who died in Iraq. I had attended Fergy's final roll call in Colorado. Long before the war had started, many of the Special Forces soldiers stationed there told me of their certainty that Iraq would devolve into civil war after the invasion. Searching my memory now, I can't recall a single Special Forces soldier who predicted otherwise; history has proven they were correct.

The Special Forces soldiers at Balad talked frankly about the pace of progress and challenges they face with training the new Iraqi forces. They recounted that many Iraqi soldiers and police officers are apparently losing much of their salaries to corrupt superiors who skim the payroll, leaving the soldiers and police to steal from civilians. This can be attributed to culture and custom and it's bound to disturb many people in the west. But the Special Forces soldiers take it in stride. I've learned to gauge the relative corruption of places by the cleanliness of their drinking and bathing water. The water is not clean here. The water is scarce yet free, and since it's free, people waste it. In the human world, there are but small islands of relative-justice. There's no place like home, no place like home, no place like home.


Iraq's future will soon be in their own hands. Iraqis can then display for the world if Iraqis are truly smart, and truly civilized, or just thugs with oil, and money to buy giant weapons. Meanwhile, rivers of oil and water are wasted by Iraqi hands. ----
Before parting company with CSM Mellinger, we attended a memorial on LSA Anaconda for Specialist Ryan Montgomery from Kentucky. Ryan and his twin brother Bryan had both joined the Kentucky National Guard and were twenty-two years old. They were serving in Iraq when Ryan was killed by a bomb. During the ceremony, soldiers referenced the attacks in London as an important reason to stay here in Iraq, and to see the job finished. I saw it with my own eyes, and heard it with my own ears when soldiers from Kentucky said they needed to be here to prevent attacks in places such as London, or at the Kentucky Derby, or in Germany.


My most informative period in Iraq ended when I finally said goodbye to CSM Mellinger. He departed for Baghdad, and I stayed in Balad. I got a seat on an Air Force C-130 that was headed for Mosul. The airplane was filled with sixty tires, the kind that are constantly being blown off the Stryker vehicles. When we landed in Mosul, the war was still here, waiting.



Monday, July 11, 2005

The Books of Salah al Din

A Dispatch for Medical Professionals and others wishing to help Iraqi People



Salah al Din Province, Iraq
The imagination to see, the initiative to act, the energy to do; when a person has these essentials, a great journey can begin.

The successful bondage of man depends, at least in part, on equal measures of ignorance and intimidation. These are the twin towers of both tyranny and terrorism. Controlling access to information constrains the power of ideas, allowing a climate of confusion and fear to rise in the vacuum. In fields such as science and medicine, ongoing access to developing ideas and emerging technologies is essential to maintaining a capacity to deliver health care and to harness the power of unfolding developments.

In most instances, it would be oxymoronic to insert the name of Saddam Hussein in a sentence which also contained the phrase "the greater good." Under his regime, access to information vital to medicine was constricted to the point of atrophy. The danger grows over time; the quality of health care diminishes immediately, while the capacity to educate the next generation of doctors, nurses and allied health care professionals is seriously compromised.

Poverty is not the basic problem in Iraq. A helicopter flight over cities and villages reveals thousands of satellite dishes, thousands of automobiles driving about, and power lines crisscrossing the country. The people are starved, however, but the commodity for which they hunger is knowledge and information, particularly the kind that comes unfiltered. Yet many of the terrorists who make the misery they later feed on wish to cut ties to the outside world.

In the months immediately following the collapse of the Saddam regime, but before the tumor of insurgency invaded the body, medical officers attached to the 4th Infantry Division met with doctors and professors of the region's medical schools and hospitals, to assess needs and find ways to share resources to facilitate the rehabilitation of the health care system. Two of the key medical officers of the Division, LTC Kirk Eggleston, the Division Surgeon (and hence the principal medical staff officer ) and Major Alex Garza, the Division's Civil Affairs Medical Officer, visited the Medical College of the University of Tikrit.

During initial visits, they were taken aback by a discovery that Iraqi doctors and medical students were relying on photocopies of outdated medical texts for information. Initial inquiries revealed that what looked like an isolated case of an improvised library was actually the presenting symptom of a systemic deficiency--Iraq's scientific and technical resources were dangerously malnourished. All over Iraq, teachers and students were using photocopies of outdated textbooks and had been doing so for decades.

This was not about saving money; the cost of making the photocopies can be higher than purchasing books and journals. The issue was availability. Iraqi physicians and professors could not simply shop online and purchase a title for shipment to Iraq. Basic medical science textbooks as well as those relating to the medical specialties were only available as well-thumbed copies of out-of-date editions. Medical journals were similarly unavailable.

Not long after that first meeting, Eggleston and Garza shared their findings with then-Major Gifford who shared their consternation and alarm. Gifford shared his concerns about the condition of Iraqi medical education with his father, David Gifford, MD, a retired Army medical officer. To Dr. Gifford, the answer was obvious--he needed to find a way to fill those shelves. Collaborating with Army Major Alex Garza, MD, he launched a public health response in the form of an old-fashioned book drive.

The potential energy of knowledge is one of the most powerful, but most unpredictable forces on the planet. When these two men set out to equip the medical libraries near Bagdad, they had no idea what they were about to unleash. Their first moves were tentative–-requesting donations from textbook distributors and publishers--and lackluster in terms of results.

After fruitless weeks of efforts, they decided to modernize the book drive by taking it onto the internet. Dr. Gifford made contact with Susan Yox, RN, EdD, an editor at Medscape, an online clearinghouse for health professionals. This was the same Dr. Yox who, in 2002, publicized requests for assistance for physicians and hospitals in Afghanistan. Dr. Garza, in civilian life, is an assistant professor at the medical college of the University of Missouri, Kansas City. In this partnership with Dr. Yox, the right people combined with the right skills, and a passion for the mission.

Doctors Gifford and Garza began a small internet campaign where they sent emails and posted notices on websites for their alma maters, asking for donations of medical text books. Almost immediately, the response outraced their expectations. Although the donations began arriving through simple channels (mostly by mail or personal delivery), as groups of students and teachers in the US learned of the program and began to work collectively, the size of the deliveries began to be measured in tons.

Outside of formal military and governmental channels, and completely on a voluntary basis, a virtual organization consisting of both military and civilian members was born. A small but growing group of Americans, medical students and professors, ordinary doctors and nurses, medical librarians and eventually even medical publishers, created a way for colleges, hospitals, nursing schools and community clinics to fill Iraqi bookshelves with recently published texts and journals.

Because of British influences in the region after World War I, Iraq's six-year medical program is patterned after Great Britain's model, and the training is in English. Of course, just because there's no detour for translations doesn't make the road clear of all obstacles, and this journey would have more than a few.

The Books of Salah al Din

As word spread on the internet, the chatter triggered an avalanche of donations. A retiring plastic surgeon in Texas donated his professional library of texts and specialty journals. Students at Mt. Sinai School of Medicine in New York City donated over 2,000 texts. A senior medical student at the University of Tennessee School of Medicine took the idea and advanced it another step among his peers and faculty by using flyers and email. His group accumulated nearly 4,000 texts and journals. Elsevier, an international medical and scientific publisher, donated packaging and postal costs. Evidence of the growing momentum was seen in the donation of 1,000 copies each of Scientific American Medicine and ACS Surgery from Medscape Publishers. This one collection of new texts weighed 17,600 pounds and had a retail value of $429,000. The magnitude of this donation was leveraged to ratchet up the credibility and visibility of the project, culminating when Merck Canada donated five pallets of medical and scientific journals.

Swerving to Avoid Obstacles

When Doctors Gifford, Yox and Garza began the internet campaign, using the services of the Medscape electronic bulletin board, they hadn't really planned for success. Because their earlier efforts failed to gather any momentum after several months, they weren't predicting success on either the scale or speed that reality was about to demand. But the response was overwhelming and instantaneous.

Donations directed to Dr. Garza began to arrive in Iraq through mail channels, while many other donations were delivered directly to Dr. Gifford's office at the hospital at Fort Hood, TX. The first major obstacle was a regulation prohibiting soldiers from requesting donations. Cognizant of this, Garza had been careful in how the first internet messages were worded, but apparently, not careful enough to avoid an admonishment, with hints of court martial.

Things might have derailed then and there, since at the time, Dr. Garza was the sole point of contact in Iraq for the campaign. Rather than quit, he passed the load to the American Red Cross representative attached to the Army, who assumed responsibility for receiving the books.

To make the transition official, the team again turned to internet-savvy military support and medical education communities. They asked for help putting the word out that future donations should be sent to the American Red Cross and packages should have the phrase "Humanitarian Medical Aid" clearly written on the outside. Since there is not a rule against accepting this type of mail, they interpreted the rules to allow the packages to pass through the military postal system.

Cartons and pallets arrived in ever larger quantities, while other shipments were too costly to send, creating a log jam. The daunting logistics could have spelled the end, and just as quickly as the initial internet solicitations had gone out, the organizers could have pled "NO MORE BOOKS PLEASE."

But this was not to be. Indeed, this is an instance where the bureaucracy of the U.S. Military paid dividends for the greater good. No organization in the world moves heavy loads about the Earth—-into combat and disaster areas-—as efficiently as the U.S. Military. Working with the Army, the Air Force cleared these large donations to be included as Space A cargo (space available) on military flights.

As the donor base grew, so did the list of persons willing to distribute texts, journals and related items in other parts of Iraq. When the donations to Tikrit began to saturate the capacity, other medical officers stepped up and began distributing materials across wider areas of Iraq.

The donors continue to come from different corners of the U.S. "The Muslim Medical Students Organization in the Chicago area is participating," explained Dr. Gifford, "and a sidelight of this is that the predominantly Jewish medical school at Mt. Sinai, the Roman Catholic Loyola University School of Medicine in Chicago, as well as the secular schools have been equally involved. Students at Rush Medical College and UCLA are organizing book drives."

Everyone who gets involved in this effort, from medical students to publishers to the soldiers loading the books, all seem to get distracted by the desire to make a difference, and energized by the fact that they are. It's doubtful that most could even imagine the impact of their contributions in Iraq.

Since the campaign was launched, there have been four separate iterations of medical personnel to maintain it, at considerable expense to their non-duty time, and risking considerable exposure to danger. From this vantage in Iraq, seeing so many Americans, Europeans, and others pulling together to help Iraqis whom they have never met is fulfilling, heartening, and provides a welcome respite from writing and thinking about war.

Anyone, anywhere in the world who has English-language medical, dental, veterinary or nursing texts or journals and would like to send them to Iraq, please contact David Gifford, MD: dgifford@hot.rr.com, for suggestions about how to do so.



Thursday, July 07, 2005

Attacking our Family

The American soldiers here in Iraq who have seen the news about the attack on London, are angry. When the United Kingdom is attacked, our family is attacked. We are seeing news here in Iraq that civilians and children were killed in London. This is very distressing, as when we see the savages killing children here in Iraq.

It is also clear from the messages I am getting from London, that the people in the U.K. are reacting with great strength and calm. They always have been resolute people, and no doubt our family in the U.K. will react in a way unexpected by the barbarians who have attacked us yet again.

Sincerely,

Michael
Balad, Iraq



Monday, July 04, 2005

Fallujah

Camp Fallujah
Al Anbar Province, Iraq

On 23 June 2005, the enemy rammed a vehicle loaded with explosives into a truck carrying our troops, ending the lives of one sailor and five Marines.

The 8th Regimental Combat Team of the United States Marine Corps held a memorial for six fallen comrades.

The attack gained worldwide attention, threatening to turn the memorial into the customary frenzy, so the military banned media-borne cameras from the memorial. The camera-ban resulted in few media attending the service.

Lost in the attack were the following:

LCPL Holly Ann Charette, USMC, of South Kingston, Rhode Island. Holly was born in 1983.

CS1 Regina Renee Clark, US Navy, of Centralia, Washington. Regina was born in 1962.

PFC Veashna Muy, USMC, of Long Beach, California, born in 1984. Veashna's friends said his parents are from Cambodia.

CPL Carlos Antonio Pineda, USMC, from San Salvador, El Salvador. CPL Pineda was the latest of many people from other countries who died in service to the United States. He was born in 1982.

CPL Chad Wayne Powell, USMC, born in 1983, from West Monroe, Louisiana.

CPL Ramona Magdalena Valdez, USMC, from the Bronx, New York. CPL Valdez was born in 1984.


Their service and sacrifice will be remembered.



Saturday, July 02, 2005

Walking the Line IV

LT Noah Harris in Buhriz

The Fine Line

Baghdad, Iraq
It's a dusty walk through blowing heat to the crowded mess hall at Camp Victory. I don't really know anyone here. To pass the time while eating, I sometimes imagine I'm sitting alone in a jungle with insects chirping and birds singing through the thickness, the fresh smell of green jungle and running water. It could be Costa Rica, or the jungle of Laos, or best of all, the Appalachians in spring. Settled down next to an icy stream, I'm just laying there, reading a book and drifting into sleep.

Here in Mesopotamia the thump and rumble of car bombs shudder through the base every day. One bomb last night sounded especially large, or maybe it was just close. Probably both. There were a couple of people killed by bombs in Baghdad yesterday. Or maybe it was a few dozen. No sense in trying to keep track; today will be more and tomorrow will be more again. The accountants of war have been busy. Some are saying there have been nearly 500 car bombs in Iraq over the last year. Last night, the base got mortared, or rocketed close by; seven of our people were wounded. I found out after someone told me in passing the next day.
The Associated Press reported that car bombs in Mosul are so prevalent that police have banned trunk lids on taxis. Actually, the trunk-lid idea came from an Army captain named Paul Carron. He not only thought the whole thing up but also negotiated with the union that represents taxi drivers, and then gave credit for the idea to the cops. I see Captain Carron often when I am in Mosul; soldiers like Paul Carron are making this work.

Today, here in Baghdad, CSM Mellinger will head to a Combat Support Hospital (CSH) in less than an hour. In soldier patois the CSH is "the cash," and in military parlance, a "casualty" is any person who no longer fully functions due to something: Wounded, sick, killed, missing in action, or just gone crazy, anything corporeal that takes a soldier off the fighting roster makes for a casualty.

Nearing the mess hall, two helicopters fly low overhead and disappear, the sharp sounds of automatic weapons fire cut into the familiar rhythm of the rotars stirring the dusty mass of boiling air. It would be nice to be scuba diving in the Pacific today. Armed soldiers at the mess hall check my ID, "Thank you sir," says a sergeant, and he waves me in. Looks like I will be eating alone. I pick up a copy of The Stars and Stripes, the only newspaper around. Many soldiers call it the Stars and Lies, but in reality the paper is mostly a synthesis of mainstream media sources—anything from Michael Jackson to military scandals, right up to parochial, “hometown” military stories.

The banner atop the Stripes reads:

Lawmakers upset with pace of Marines’ up armor program

STARS AND STRIPES - The headlines:
No Change expected in Iraq troop levels:
U.S. general sees no reductions before December elections Page 3

They must be talking about Lt. General Vines, I think. Vines became an Army officer in 1971, before most of the soldiers in Iraq were born. I flip to page 3 and read that Lt. General Vines is indeed the man they quoted. I've noticed lately that the military top brass seems to be carefully trying to distance themselves from civilian leaders, who seem to be carefully trying to gloss over the situation here. Clearly we are winning, but it's tough going.

Underneath that story is another:
U.S. ambassador ‘horrified’ by attacks on Iraqis

Also on page 3 is the daily war accounting by the Associated Press:
U.S. deaths in Iraq

As of Monday, it says, at least 1,721 members of the US military have died since the beginning of the Gulf War in March 2003. I usually skip that part; I don’t want to learn about the death of a friend in the paper, but there are several names and my eyes arrest on Army 1st Lt. Noah Harris, 23, Ellijay, Ga. Noah Harris? Noah Harris? But it didn’t say what unit. Yes, there it is, "Died Saturday from injuries received the previous day when their vehicle was attacked in Buhriz." It was Noah. I lose my appetite and walk back out.

LT Noah Harris on the path to the beehives

The last time I saw Noah was during a big raid in Buhriz when his unit found weapons and bad guys in the houses. I followed Noah and his soldiers into the palm groves nearby where they found weapons. There were a bunch of beehives stacked next to the river and someone said, "that would be the perfect place to hide shit."

There were dozens of bustling beehives; the locals have citrus trees planted among the palms, and I imagined the bees were there to pollinate the orange trees. That's how it works in Florida. Most of the soldiers sleeked back from the bees, but one walked forward and said, "We can search, guys . . . just have to be slow. Nice and slow." And he started lifting up covers, nice and slow, and looking inside.

"Ain'ch you ever heard of African killa bees?" asked a soldier.
"You ever done that before?" I asked.
"Yeah," he said. "These are just regular bees."
"Reg'la bees sting too!" said the killa-bees soldier.

The hive-checking soldier wasn't running away under an angry cloud of bees, which I took as an endorsement of his apiarian credentials, and I started lifting covers, too. Nice and slow. Then, a couple more soldiers started checking hives, which really would have been a great place to hide weapons. But most of the others stayed back. Then I said, "Can you imagine if we take some RPGs now? These bees are gonna sting." And that's when the lieutenant said, "Let's go!"

That was one of the last missions I did in Baquba, and it was the last time I saw Lt. Noah Harris, the same Lt. Noah Harris the Stars and Stripes reports killed in action. I am supposed to meet CSM Mellinger in twenty minutes for a trip to "the cash." He visits hospitalized soldiers twice a week. I grab my gear, we load up the Humvee and drive off base.

Just as we pass through the front gate, SSG Billy Helton's voice comes over the internal comms, announcing that we are passing the spot where six people died in a car bomb yesterday.

When we reach the hospital, CSM Mellinger and an Australian senior enlisted sailor head inside, taking off their battle gear before making the rounds. The doctors, nurses and other staff seem pleased to see Mellinger and eager to start guiding us to the patients. Our first stop is by the room of an American soldier. He's got a bad thigh wound, –fragged by an IED– but he's sedated, breathing through a tube. CSM Mellinger asks questions about his condition. Apparently, the frag barely missed his right femoral. The soldier is lying there, unconscious and shirtless. He's got a dog tag tattooed over his right ribs that tell his blood type, social, and that he's Catholic. The CSM puts his hand on the patient's shoulder and quietly says something to him, and then we head to a nearby room.

There are three Iraqi patients in this room: two men and a woman. One of the men is a wounded Iraqi policeman. The woman is young, perhaps in her twenties, and she's lost both legs to an IED. The other man has a stomach wound that is stinking up the room.

We head down the hallway and into a room with two patients; an Iraqi man who is unconscious and breathing erratically, and little Iraqi girl. A nurse says the girl is eleven. She is sedated, her face is very pink, her skin has been burned. She has no shirt and her chest and stomach are smooth and without injury. She breathes slowly and regularly but her hands are horribly burned, charred and cracked, covered in some kind of medicine. She's been here for three weeks, a nurse explains, but the girl has a long way to go before she can be released. The girl could have been blown to bits, but the flash of the bomb only burned her, searing her skin as if over a grill. Flash burns are common; soldiers often cut off the fingers of their gloves for better dexterity, only to end up with charred fingertips, such as this little girl suffered on her hands and face. The mercy of her sedation doesn't extend to her visitors, visibly upset to see one so little so badly hurt. The Australian slowly shakes his head. "Where are her parents?" I asked the nurse. Her father is living at the hospital until his child can get skin grafts. The staff provides her father—along with any other parents of wounded children—rooms to live in, and meals while they stay and care for their children. The Australian sailor looks saddened as he puts a stuffed animal at the foot of her bed.

Lying in a bed close to the burned girl is a man who's been shot three times in the torso. He's an insurgent. He looks to be in his forties. His face is several tones darker than his bare chest. Blankets cover his legs, but the soles of his feet are thick, like dog pads; filth so embedded that it has become part of the skin. The feet look as if they have walked around the earth without shoes. He is heavily sedated. “Why did we shoot him?” I asked. Apparently we caught him–in flagrante deflagratu–emplacing an IED.

Hearing the details of the shooting, I recall an interpreter who was severely burned in an attack that killed two of our soldiers in Mosul. The interpreter was flown to Amman for treatment. But infection beat him there in Jordan. He died because he couldn't get the authorization for us to provide the treatment, yet this enemy is given excellent medical care.

The man sucked a labored gasp, followed by erratic puffs and pants, before his breathing settled again. His mouth hanging agape, showed jagged teeth. This dreg was probably hired for a few beans to plant a bomb in the road, or perhaps he met a man in a mosque selling martyrdom as the fast track to Heaven. But he looked too old, poor and weathered to muster much excitement about virgins in Heaven. Judging from the looks of his jagged teeth and craggy face, his slim belly and leathered feet, this man was no officer in Saddam's military machine. His grasp of politics probably did not exceed the reach of his scrawny arms. He was a pitiful beast with no business recovering in the same room as that innocent little girl with the scorched face and charred hands.

But it's all about the rules and laws, made perhaps by people sitting at long shiny tables beneath crystal domes, far far away. One thing is certain, soldiers at war didn't make the rule that put the perpetrator of a crime in the same room as a young victim.

*******

Close by, at the Al-Rasheed Hotel:

Sergeant Arnold Duplantier of the California National Guard was on the roof of the Al-Rasheed Hotel providing security, probably while journalists journalized on the floors below him. A hot dusty wind tinged the whole of Baghdad a pale orange. The enemy sniper steadied the rifle on his shoulder, put the sights on Arnold Duplantier, and began squeezing the trigger.

*******

Back in the hospital, we walked down the hall, stopping in a room where more children were recovering from injuries caused by enemy IEDs. There was a boy and a girl in the same room. Brother and sister. He was eleven; his sister in the next bed was sixteen years. The children did not speak English, and the nurse said they had been very afraid of the Americans at first, but now they smiled and the girl tried to speak English.

After the smiles and fractured conversation, we walked to a nurse's station. CSM Mellinger asked if they had figured out what was causing so many soldiers to get cellulitis, which is an inflammation that results from bacteria entering cracked, burned or otherwise opened skin. Down this hall, we visited a Marine gunny sergeant who was wounded for at least the second time. The "Gunny" was an impatient patient and wanted to get back with his Marines. His roommate was a young Army soldier with blepharitis, a swollen eyelid. He was grumpy and didn't seem to want company, or to be in the hospital and probably not Iraq, either. Some soldiers do not like it here, no matter how smooth their blephars are, and they make no effort to hide it.

In yet another room an army sergeant was in high spirits, despite being sidelined by some kind of cellulitis. He also wanted to get back to his soldiers and was embarrased to be sidelined by the unseen.

More than half of the patients in the hospital were Iraqis. Among the other half was a Romanian civilian who had been providing security until he got shot in the leg. Now, he was in healthy spirits, but in that Romanian way—looking askance with slightly raised brows as if to say, "I am skeptical, cynical, and clever . . . and I expect to suffer a thousand lies for every blade of truth, and I will drink you into submission and you will tell more than you intended you fool!" Actually, he seemed a pleasant fellow.

When we left the Romanian with the raised brow and immobilized leg, we trod downstairs into what amounted to an emergency room. A wounded soldier had just been brought in. There were other soldiers wearing 3rd Infantry Division patches, the same division Noah was in. The soldiers were sweating and grimy the way soldiers look after working in the heat and dust of Iraq. Their ammunition pouches were mostly full, so I doubted they had been in a big fight, but something was wrong.

We walked into a small room where a soldier lay face up, eyes closed. His hair was cut short to the nubs. Arnold Duplantier was in a black body bag with the corner folded back. He was shirtless. The sniper's bullet had found the opening in his body armor and gone straight into his chest and through his heart. CSM Mellinger puts his hand on Arnold's shoulder, pats the shoulder and then places his hand on Arnold's head, as if to say something to Arnold. Another young soldier bear hugs CSM Mellinger the way a son might hug a father after a brother dies. The soldier weeps and Mellinger holds him and I feel I am intruding and so quietly walk out. There are times when soldiers should be left alone.

Some of Arnold's friends were there, but others were still out in the fight. The sniper was still working; he hit two more of our soldiers after killing Arnold Duplantier. A group of soldiers wheeled another soldier through the doors. He'd been shot slightly in the neck, and was smiling and even waved as his buddies wheeled him in, apparently oblivious that Arnold was killed.

Arnold Duplantier had run his final patrol, and as soldiers from his unit began to flood in, they crowded the back of the room where the body of their fallen comrade lay. When the soldiers left the room, tears streaming down their cheeks, their sergeant major rallied them by saying that now was not the time for tears. There was work to do. The sniper who had killed one comrade and wounded two others was still out there. The men straightened up and started getting back into the fight. There will be time for tears, he said, but not today.